Exhilarating and overwhelming, Kolkata is like an exotic rock opera of sights, smells and sounds that can easily take your breath away. The streets are jammed with people, the traffic is beyond belief, the noise level is at a fever pitch, and the city surges with energy. It’s an in-your-face kind of city, always moving, never boring.
Formerly known as Calcutta, Kolkata is located on the east bank of the River Hooghly. The capital of West Bengal, it is the main business, commercial and financial hub of eastern India and the main port of communication for the North-East Indian states. Most of the large Indian companies have a major presence in Kolkata; consequently, thousands of business travelers flood into the city daily.
Kolkata’s economic foundation had its beginnings during the colonial period. It was the capital city of British India and the principal site from which the British operated their trade with the eastern part of the empire. The rapid industrialization after independence furthered the city’s economic growth. But in the 1970s, it began a worrisome decline. Fortunately, things on the economic front began to take a turn for the better in 1991, when the Indian government introduced the Statement on Industrial Policy, which lowered tariff rates and reduced government controls on foreign trade and investment.
Today, India is one of the fastest-growing economies in the world, with a young population, a large and growing middle class and huge infrastructure needs. Kolkata’s major industries include electronics and information technology, textiles, pharmaceuticals, heavy engineering and tea. It is also home to the Calcutta Stock Exchange, the oldest and second-largest exchange in the country.
To enter the country, United States citizens will need a visa. If there’s a chance of multiple trips to India, a 10-year visa is definitely the way to go.
Though Bengali is the official language in Kolkata, the majority of the population also speaks Hindi and English, so business travelers can expect to find associates who speak excellent English.
The local currency is the Indian rupee, and it’s good to have some smaller bills and coins for cab fares and tips. There are plenty of ATMs in Kolkata, but service charges and a fixed percentage in commission off the interbank exchange rate can add up. Also, the conversion of rupees back to U.S. dollars can be difficult, so it’s better to use credit cards whenever possible. They are widely accepted in boutiques, hotels and restaurants.
As far as tipping, upscale restaurants and cafés often include a service charge on the bill, thus tipping is not necessary. If there is no tip added, 10 percent is the norm. Porters in 4- and 5-star hotels are usually tipped 5 rupees per bag, and rounding up the fare to the closest 10 rupees will suffice for taxi drivers.
Merchants at Kolkata’s flower market © Ellen Clark
Starting in April, the temperatures soar, with the humidity reaching its high from June to September. The most pleasant weather is generally October through March, when it is substantially cooler and dry.
Most Indians dress conservatively, so business travelers should keep that in mind. No matter how steamy it gets outside, most businessmen wear suits and ties. The main thing women need to remember is to dress modestly. A suit is always appropriate.
There are plenty of ways to get around Kolkata, including bus, the Metro Rail and hand-drawn or automatic rickshaws, but the easiest method is taxi. Bright yellow taxis are everywhere, and the price is reasonable. However, though many have meters, the drivers are usually unwilling to use them, so ask the hotel concierge or a local what a fair price would be to your destination and then negotiate a price with the driver before hopping into the cab.
Business travelers usually want to stay as close to the main business district as possible, which in Kolkata means on or around Park Street. Two of the best hotel choices in the area are the Taj Bengal and The Oberoi Grand.
The Taj Bengal balances its modern décor with genuine antiques and original works of art. The stunning, sparklingwhite Oberoi with its melding of Victorian and Indian architecture has been serving travelers in a grand style for 125 years. Hotel Lytton has a full business center and more affordable prices.
Since CEOs in Kolkata are almost obsessively focused on meeting deadlines, time-saving practices such as the business lunch are popular. Local restaurants jumped onto this trend, and many cater to the business community. Around Esplanade and Park Street, the city’s main business hubs, restaurants are filled at lunchtime with people in business suits, their smartphones in full view.
Though lunch is still the most popular meal over which to discuss business, power breakfasts and business dinners are becoming more common. The most coveted venues for business lunches are 5-star hotels and high-end downtown restaurants. Consequently, they can be jammed at the lunch hour, so it’s essential to book in advance.
Any client would be delighted to be taken to lunch at either The Oberoi Grand or The Park Hotel, where the food is excellent and the service impeccable. However, there are also plenty of options in the downtown business area. Peter Cat is extremely popular. In business since the 1960s, it is known for its signature chelo kebab, a huge rice and kebab platter served with dollops of butter and poached eggs. Another popular place for a business lunch is The Peerless Inn’s Aaheli restaurant, which specializes in Bengal cuisine. The Oceanic coffee shop, also at The Peerless Inn, is open 24 hours a day, making it perfect for a business breakfast or a quick bite any time of the day.
Read more about Kolkata’s Malik Ghat Flower Market.
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